Planning a child-free trip to Rarotonga? We’ve found just the right place

Sea Change Villas, self-contained boutique accommodation on Rarotonga’s more secluded south coast.
OPINION
With crystal-clear water on the back doorstep and a well-stocked fridge, you could spend a week at Sea Change Villas in Rarotonga without leaving your villa – but it’s worth the effort when you do, writes Joanna Wane.
Location: The Titikaveka district, on Rarotonga’s quieter south coast – handily placed between the tourist hub of Muri to the east and the more sheltered western side of the island, where turtles and beachside bars for sunset cocktails can be found in abundance.
Style: Self-contained beachfront villas (one or two bedrooms) with a modern, island-style aesthetic.
Perfect for: A relaxed, child-free beach house feeling, slightly off the main drag. Positioned metres from the high-tide mark and designed for privacy, the villas only take guests aged 16-plus.
First impressions: We’d already checked into the villa online and arrived by airport shuttle in the pitch-black dead of night. Following the sound of the sea, we opened the sliding doors out back and nearly stepped straight into the water.
The villa: Highlight number one – the four-poster bed (like most of the furniture, it was made by a local company on the island). Highlight number two – the walk-in wardrobe. When we woke in daylight to check out the view from our deck, the water was so clear I could see the sandy lagoon floor.
The villas are simply but comfortably furnished with splashes of colour, showcasing work by Cook Island artists. Low inner walls that stop short of the ceiling allow air to circulate and create a lovely interior flow.
My husband and I shared a two-bedroom apartment with our adult son, whose quarters across the central courtyard had a separate entrance, as well as its own smaller kitchen and bathroom. A perfect option for two couples, if you can survive the fight over who gets the master bedroom. The main kitchen is equipped with all the gear you need to hunker down for a long stay, including a Nespresso machine (barbecue available on request).
Bathroom: Who needs a bath when you’ve got your own private swimming pool? A spacious indoor shower (plus another one out on the deck) and two generously sized hand basins in the main bathroom mean there’s an ocean of space to settle in and spread out all your stuff.
Toiletries come in refillable bottles from the Rito Cook Islands range, a premium skincare brand that’s made on the island. Bathrobes provided.
Facilities: Villa toys include snorkel gear, kayaks and stand-up paddle boards (it’s worth bringing your own reef shoes). Grab one of the free pushbikes or rent an e-bike from reception and go exploring. We cycled the 32km coastal loop road, stopping at a bakery and a beach bar along the way.
On-site laundry facilities, a book/DVD lending library and smart TV streaming services. Unlimited Wi-Fi costs $20 per villa per stay. Super-friendly and helpful staff at reception – check out their Island Time blog on the website for some great insider travel tips.
Food and drink: A “breakfast starter pack” included eggs, cereal, whole-grain bread, juice and milk, with a bottle of bubbles for the birthday boy, which was a lovely touch. There’s no bar or restaurant at the villas so stock up with supplies at Wigmore’s Superstore nearby.
Imported goods can be eye-wateringly expensive, and if you’re eating out, expect similar menu prices to mid-range Auckland restaurants. Market and roadside stalls are a great option for fresh fish, fruit and vegetables. A bottle of duty-free gin supplemented our daily cocktail ration.
In the neighbourhood: We went low-impact and didn’t rent a car, but the whole island is easily accessible by bike or the loop bus, which runs both clockwise and anti-clockwise every hour.
From the villas, turn left for the beautiful, whitewashed Titikaveka Cook Islands Christian Church then head on to Maire Nui Gardens & Cafe (famous for its lemon meringue cheesecake). Turn right for the turtles: our sea scooter tour with Ariki Adventures was absolutely magical.
Sustainability: Electricity is diesel-generated and expensive on the island, so although air-conditioning is available, you’re encouraged to use the fans and louvre windows fitted with insect screens.
Rainfall collected in the hills behind the villas is filtered to provide safe drinking water, and specially designed tanks use worms to break down waste, which is returned to the soil as plant fertiliser through a trickle irrigation system.
Accessibility: No specific facilities but the villas have entry ramps and doorways are wide enough to accommodate a wheelchair. Access to the beach would be tricky, though.
Price: Two-bedroom beachfront villa with private pool – $3135 for a minimum three-night stay.
Contact: seachangevillas.com.